John’s Diary – Part 8 Spring

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Springtime Part 4 (Surely its summertime now) – 1st July

(It’s been a while since updating this but the blog site has been unavailable due to new hardware installation; so this one is both late and lengthy.)

1.      Gail’s looking over a four-leafed clover……. Whilst walking home from work, Gail found a genuine “lucky” 4-leafed clover growing beside the footpath (clover is meant to have 3 leaves, by the way). She awaits her good fortune ….but my initial reaction was that she was lucky just to find it.

Remember the end of the rainbow, with its pot of gold – the end that cannot be reached? As a kid I tried, just the once I might add – my name isn’t Bart or Homer Simpson – only to find that the end continued to relocate as I moved towards it. So, the gold eluded me then – and forever since, in every other financial pursuit, for that matter.And perhaps you remember a rabbit’s foot? I think I would feel lucky not to have a “real” one of those.Well, Gail really does have a (supposedly) good luck charm as I hope you can see in the photo.

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There is a down side (or two) to the story. She also found some 5-leafed clovers and dozens of the four–leafed variety. Does this mean that everyone here can have good luck just for the picking? Or is she just lucky to be here in this part of Korea to see the obviously “common” 4-leafed clover in its natural habitat. Also Gail didn’t really “find” them anyway. A Korean Uni lecturer was collecting them for his students and his family – and as we walked past he felt the need to explain his activity. Of course, we joined in the search with stunning “success”. So now, for me, the illusion, if ever it existed, is gone. Gail, on the other hand, is determined to retain her belief in such magical things, even in the light of overwhelming evidence to the contrary. (She still tells our “children” that if they don’t believe in Santa, he will not come – hence no presents.) So, she awaits her good fortune and, what’s more, she plans on collecting lots more of it.

2.      With the warming of the weather comes a change in clothing worn by Koreans. Gone are the very formal looking suits and now most wear more casual clothes. And perhaps as many as 25% of the young women do not wear high heels any more (but the vast majority seem to have them welded on). I’m not quite sure where these very bright bathing costumes might be worn as the nearest decent beach is hundreds of kilometres away. Koreans love saunas (separate for men and women) but the bathing area in those is nude.

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3.      Its story time in the park. Perhaps the children are being read a tale of a strange old foreign man who might, right at this minute, be sneaking up on them.

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4.      We thought this dog looked a little like a younger, less confident (with the tail down) version of our Sooki.

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5.      In mid-May we celebrated Mothers day, as supported by our 2 own adult-children, but I saw no sign of that name in Korean society. On the 5th May, however, they had a national holiday for “Children’s Day” but the holiday did not affect Gail’s work as it fell on a Saturday this year. On this day children choose where the family might go and what they might do. Some presents are expected too. Officially, Parents Day was on the 8th May and is, I guess, like Mothers/Fathers Day; but as I said there was no obvious publicity for it and it does not rate as a public holiday, so is of much lesser importance than is Children’s Day. On the 6th June there was (another) public holiday, Memorial Day –the day the nation pays tribute to its war dead.

6.      A swastika is used to represent a Buddhist temple – not a Nazi base. The birthday of Buddha was also celebrated with a public holiday on 28th May. There are also many Christian religions in Korea (about one third claim to be Christian and 25% for Buddhism). dcp_0747.JPG           img_1532.JPG 

We used this occasion to see the latest Pirates of the Caribbean movie having recently seen Spiderman 3 at the same theatre – both in English with Korean subtitles. On this recent occasion, we were invited, at no cost to us, by a teacher from Gail’s school (Jacob) who came with his wife, daughter and 16 enthusiastic High School students. Yes, Gail does teach English to Jacob and to each of those students.

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7.      I have finally discovered lemonade. What, here, is called cider does not taste like an apple product (alcoholic or non-alcoholic) at all. That’s right, it tastes as if it’s made from lemons, sugar and carbonated water.

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(Oh dear!! Since writing that I have to admit that I have found what Koreans call “real” lemonade – in a dispensing machine. But the “cider” really does taste and look the same as our lemonade whereas the Korean lemonade is yellow coloured like Solo.)

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8.      On every day, except Sunday, we see a man with a wheelie cart and a plastic bag go past our window, picking up papers with a pair of tongs. Along with 2 ladies he also cleans the park area. Of course he cannot pick up large items such as these mattresses (these were in good condition) which have been left for whoever wants them. Fortunately, Gail had insufficient space for either of these (extra) two.

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9.      We (mainly it’s me) really do try to resist the temptation to bring more things into our apartment from the street. But I had to admit that a set of scales was a good idea – at least for when we are packing up prior to travelling by air where baggage limits apply. This set is of the older (analogue) type but seems to work ok – although I do NOT like the reading it is giving me in this photo.

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10.  Twice in one week Korean teachers from Gail’s school have taken us out for meals (one lunch and one dinner). Very generous people and pleasant company too. Mr Han, who is in charge of the school’s Biology department and also learns English from Gail, is shown here with Jacob (the same Jacob from number 4 above) and he invited the three of us and paid for our Chinese luncheon which was almost finished when the photo inside the restaurant was taken.

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11.  Experimenting as usual, Gail took us onto another bus not knowing where it went. For ~$2 each we had a trip into the countryside, rural, with rice paddies and orchards. Then the bus went half way to Seoul central and we saw three more army bases (probably American) but nothing else particularly exciting. The trip took almost 3 hours – we expected about one hour at the most, but had to stay on board in order to get back home.

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12.  Koreans carry things on their backs. They do use cranes and elevators for large professional operations such as moving furniture from one apartment to another. For personal lifting and smaller businesses, hand trolleys are rare and most lift things on their back (not at the front). Very heavy weights are lifted this way as well as being popular for carrying the youngest generation of children.

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13.  Generally we feel relaxed and comfortable. Sometimes we are confused. Most things we gradually come to understand, at least in part. There are attitudes or approaches taken where we just wonder ….. how could that be? On a more specific and safer level, the sounds of the letters of their alphabet can also be confusing with a “b” sound being interchangeable with a “p” sound – likewise a “g” with a “k” and an “r” with an “l” and an “s” with “sh”– depending where in a word they occur. For example, “poor” would come out as a “bool”, “lob” would be “rop”, “sag” would be “shak” and “sit” would be “sh..” (can you guess?). So in addition to different symbols, a different language and a different language structure there are also special rules that further complicate things. Similarly, there are aspects of personal and professional life which we see as being equally as “wondrous”. I do not believe that this is the best place to be more specific except to say that much of what we perceive as being Korean is very similar to Australia in the 1950’s , but …….it is changing, sometimes with confusing and complicated end results.

14.  We are surrounded by small apartment blocks (called villas) so our view of the countryside is necessarily limited. This is about all we have – our narrow peek at the world beyond the streets. Gail also liked the photo she took showing that view as well as me filling the washing machine with a bucket (it’s much to slow to rely on the normal fill mechanism).

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15.  Koreans driving small trucks “hawk” their wares in the suburban streets. The little loud speakers make a huge and annoying noise as they advertise their stuff. This one is selling only garlic.

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16.  Our water is also delivered by truck, after I ring to order it.

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17.  We have had more enjoyable walks, mainly at weekends:-

- One was in central Seoul where a floodwater “drain” has been converted into a pretty 3 km watercourse; at night, under lights, it is a famous area for lovers but we have not seen it under those circumstances. 

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- Another, more obviously a park, also about 3 km, is jammed between our local city hall and the expressway, forest-like but with lots of man-made improvements.

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- Walking in central Seoul on another occasion we found these people who paid to hand-paint mugs; the adults, in particular, were amazingly skilful.

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- Not all waterways are beautiful as you can see. This walk, in our nearest city area, was a bit of a disappointment in comparison; although, away from (i.e. well above) the water level, there were some redeeming features.

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Seoul Forest is not a forest, rather a large family park area. Many thousands crowded in with us. There were play areas for children, a functioning equestrian centre, tennis, basketball, croquet (on sand not lawn), badminton, soccer, kickball,  a lake packed with fish, walkways, lots of shade for picnickers (of which there were heaps) and an outdoor theatre. There were other things of interest but we didn’t have time to see them all.

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Springtime Part 3 – 7th June (Happy birthday to Wilma)  Here are some miscellaneous (now familiar to us) aspects of life in South Korea. These are in addition to the many I have previously cited – or at least I hope that is so as I do not want to be overly repetitious.·        A rotating red, white and blue pole does not represent a barber shop and visitors must not make that mistake. When I asked, it was explained to me that, in such an (expensive) establishment, the (female) workers may inadvertently touch men’s hair, but not the same hair area that the barber would touch and not in the same way that the barber would touch. Without being offered further detail, I think the message was clear enough.          

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Vehicles do U-turns in the middle of intersections, buses included. Drivers casually chat away on their mobile phones – even bus drivers do this whilst driving, although I note that our local bus drivers use hands-free systems. Vehicles park on footpaths, on street corners (yes actually in the intersection) and on pedestrian crossings, hence blocking the passage of those trying to cross at the lights. And, yes, there are a few parking officers in our local area, operating out of phone-booth-sized offices which are on the footpath; but these work limited hours each day, at times when parking is not really in demand.         

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  • Many streets do not have footpaths, possibility due to understandably poor planning back in times when there were few motor vehicles and almost all traffic was on foot. 
  • Motor bike riders are sometimes a part of normal traffic, but most often they will ride on the footpath, if there is one, beeping their horn to clear the way of pedestrians. So even if there is a footpath and even if you are on it, you are not safe from traffic. It must be illegal, though, as they look very “cross” if they see you taking their photo.

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  •  There are very few push bike riders and these use the footpath almost exclusively, regardless of their age (maximum is 12 year old in Victoria to ride on the footpath).
  • There are no trams but there are masses of buses, taxis and trains that are all clean, modern and efficient. There are no pedal-taxis or motorized taxi bikes as there are elsewhere in Asia. Although trains and buses run every few minutes there are times when only standing room is available; up to an hour of standing with constant acceleration and deceleration is very tiring on the feet and legs. 

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  • There are lots of steps in (mountainous) Korea. The people should be super-fit. There are escalators and lifts everywhere but still it seems that you are constantly walking up or down (it feel like it’s mainly up) stairs. This is not a place to be on crutches, for example.

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  • Rather than queuing for, say, food or movie tickets Koreans often use the “take a number” system and wait until their number is called or displayed at the service area or window – then they can place their order or buy their tickets etc. (Also used in Australia, in certain situations, I know.)
  • There are many more restaurants than in Australia – often very small, perhaps with only 2 or 3 tables. Korean food is spicy (they like it really hot – peppers and chilli) and many women drink beer because mixed drinks, juices, soft-drinks and wines are difficult to locate in restaurants and bars. Water is always provided with every meal; beer is seemingly available everywhere, often even from street stalls selling snacks.
  • Many businesses are conducted in small spaces – this (local) bakery is a typical example where all of the baking is done in the tiny area behind the display cabinet.

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  • Food is also readily available in the streets – hot snacks and traditional Korean sweets. 

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  • The term “shopping plaza” might mean a big shopping mall or it might mean a single rundown little shop in an alley. Food shops abound. Some restaurants are closed on Mondays. General shopping hours are 11am to 10pm pretty much 7 days a week (although some shops are closed on Sundays) whilst lots of convenience stores remain open 24/7.
  • Underground shopping is often well disguised – a stairwell down from the street may just be another entrance down to the subway (some subway stations have more than 10 entry/exits) but it may lead to lots (hundreds) of small shops selling mainly clothing. Food markets are above ground, thankfully, as the smell of fish is bad enough without it being trapped down under.

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  • Shop attendants do not impose, but as you look at their products they hover courteously nearby. There is no hard sell and, generally, no bargaining. However, they do care about their store and their stock so if you touch something even briefly many find that they immediately must rearrange that item to be exactly as they want it to be – they cannot wait until you leave to do this and will almost push you out of the way or even take the article from your hand. This sort of thing has happened to me several times and their personal touch is needed even when I have carefully replaced the item exactly as it was. This is not true in all shops and certainly not in bigger stores and supermarkets.
  • There are some terribly expensive items here – furniture is one such – (although most things are okay in terms of price) so there must be some people wealthy enough to afford them – some very, very rich folk as well as some poor ones. Whilst in Busan Gail purchased 3 tops and we each purchased 2 lightweight jackets – total was $35 for the 7 items, so some things are inexpensive too. Since that time Gail has again bought some cheap clothing but has found that dresses and skirts are dear.
  • Barbequed chicken is different. It has a very gamey taste – like wild birds have – not at all like a Safeway chook and not particularly pleasant. Excellent fresh chicken breasts can be purchased if you have cooking facilities, but if you don’t you’ll pay a lot for some rather shoddy food, perhaps deep fried at best (a little like KFC in the bad old days when they were regularly described as Kentucky Fried Rabbit – all bone and batter rather than crumbed meat). They charge more for legs and wings and they include the necks too (our dogs at home would miss out on their bones if that happened there).
  • Speaking of birds there are lots of pigeons and some doves but, even in Busan which is an ocean port, no seagulls have we seen in Korea.
  • In a country where most people live in apartments it should be no surprise that there are few dogs (and fewer cats). Dogs are small and seemingly owned by wealthy (certainly well dressed) people – our little Arki could be the big bully dog here, which would surely please him as well being a change from reality in Australia. When we see a dog we usually take a photograph, as it is a rare event rather than commonplace. I admit that I recently went all soppy when I saw the most beautiful little white puppy for sale in the local pet shop (move over Shaun).

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  • Not only (do you get what you want) but also….. Many products come with attachments. Even a litre of milk has a piggyback companion (200ml of a different milk product, always one that I do not want) taped to it.

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  • Smoking – many people smoke cigarettes and it is cheap to do so, much less expensive than in Australia where the Government taxes them almost out of existence. No, we have not taken up the habit. Well, Gail has not started and I have not reverted after quitting on 30th June 1988 (but who’s counting).

  

Probably unrelated to the above list, and hence separated from it, is my recommendation to travellers NEVER to buy socks in China. Whether purporting to be brand names like Kelvin Klein or no-name products they are absolute crap. We purchased perhaps 10 pairs with a zero strike rate. Some developed holes on the very first use, some leaked black die into other clothes in the wash, some shrank so much as to be unwearable after one wash – none were satisfactory and none were at giveaway prices even after bargaining them down to about 20% of the original asking price. We also bought socks in Korea (made in China, I guess) which are also hopeless. They look good and feel good but they are pathetic.

                 

Springtime Part 2 – 30th May

I went to Gail’s school for a sports day – they had a visiting group or 60 students from a High School in Taiwan (an island off the coast of China). The sports were typical for Korea but not for Australia. All were played outside so fine weather was essential and, fortunately, that was what they had. img_3161.JPG img_1400.JPG img_1391.JPG img_1396.JPG img_1287.JPG img_1354.JPG Yes, there were the inevitable ceremonies and presentations involving the principal, they did play soccer and have relay running races (a helter-skelter version with no lanes except at the start), but also they had:-

  • A series of tug-of-war contests involving every student (in 5 teams) with strict rules and each contest lasting a maximum of 2 minutes. This was much more interesting than the few I have seen on TV.

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  • Kick baseball which involves the pitcher rolling a volleyball and the batter kicks it into the diamond or beyond. After that normal baseball/softball rules apply with fielders able to catch and throw as usual. It was an excellent game as the ball is so large that foot contact by the batter is easy – there are no boring periods in this game.

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  • Wrestling was the Korean version and bouts lasted until one of the two competitors went to the mat. This often occurred in the first 30 seconds but some lasted the full 3 minutes before being declared a draw. Girls also participated in this activity – competing against other girls, of course.

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  • The Human Bridge is formed with all bar 3 team members bending down in a line and with one student (small but well balanced) being helped by two others to walk across their backs. In order to reach the finish line (which is much further away than the end of the line of student “backs”) those who have been walked upon then have to rush forward, again and again, to extend the line of backs. The winning team is the one whose walker gets to the finish line first, without touching the ground. Lots of co-operation is needed for this spectacular event. 

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  • At half time in the main soccer match between the local Uijeongbu Science High School students and the ones from Taiwan, a dance routine of “YMCA” was performed by about 80 students.            

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  • Throughout the day students were very supportive of each other – chanting, singing, beating drums and banging together large empty plastic coke bottles.

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  • One teacher was responsible for the day’s program and 5 others had a major role in organising students. A few teachers had small administrative responsibilities (many had none) during the day including the one who sits next to Gail in her office and who is responsible to help us pay our bills and to ensure that Gail works “appropriately” – her name is Michelle. The one photographed sitting next to me is Joowon (my spelling), who was one of the majority of staff (there are 50 in total) who had no duties for the day. Gail teaches English to both.

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That sports day was also Teachers Day in Korea. According to the English language paper that we get, some schools close – but not this one. Some parents are said to purchase gifts for teachers and some gifts are simply cash. The government does not approve of this (completely legal) activity as it can be construed as “bribery” to obtain better marks or extra personal assistance. I am not aware of any such teacher gifts on this day at this school but I have seen packages of drinks (non-alcoholic), food and a gigantic pot plant on previous occasions – these were just for the 4 teachers in Gail’s office and others (teachers of “more important” subjects in a specialist science high school, such as physics, biology, earth science and chemistry) might be even better “rewarded”.

As a part of the sports day there was a game of Pig-goo (my spelling). It’s a bit like a combination of Brandy and British Bulldog. In a confined space teams try to hit each other with a volleyball. Once you have been hit you are “out”, but you still participate. Two teacher teams were formed and each teacher had one parent to protect from being hit. Hits can come from any of 4 directions. Once all the parents in one team had been hit the game was over. All of the parents were women. Apart from a few parents who were very unsuitably dressed (high heels) the majority participated with enthusiasm.

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On a separate day I was invited to a tour of the school’s physics and biology departments. Gail teaches English to the heads of those two areas and to increase their speaking skills she encourages them to talk about things that are familiar to them. Naturally, their work area is very familiar to them and they are justifiably proud of the facilities they have. So to practice their speaking they showed me around. It was very interesting, taking about an hour or so. They are lucky students and lucky teachers to have such fine equipment and classrooms, but it is a showpiece science school, which only opened in 2005, so I expected the best and that is what I saw.  

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20th May
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1.      Gail has added to her “collection” and is gradually moving the street in here with us:

- another computer chair; this one is black, high-backed and has 6 sets of castors rather than the usual 5; of course, it is a bit worn.
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- a black plastic storage rack for fruit and vegies – 4 shelves.

- a wooden serving tray.

- a wall mirror (very lightweight but it distorts a bit).
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- a pair of speakers for the laptop.
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- a bubble-jet colour printer that is missing its power cable, so we cannot further check it out at this stage.  

- some empty pots and a container of soil.

- a pair of rollerblades that do not fit Gail or myself.
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- a metal storage rack with adjustable shelves.
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These are in addition to the original list, which as I had previously stated, included a theatre chair, a computer chair, a chest of drawers and a queen sized mattress.
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We have, surprisingly, rejected some items and left them in the street – big wooden furniture display cabinets, more computer chairs, desks, mattresses, etc.

2.    Gail bought me a present – several actually. She decided that I must be lonely and need company each day (either that or I should seek employment). I am now the proud owner of a tomato plant but because of the language difficulties I don’t know if it will produce cherry-style tomatoes or normal ones, but I am fairly sure it will not require staking, which is good as it has to grow in a small pot.
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Also, I have 3 pepper plants – remember the language difficulty? – well, I think they are not “hot” peppers and they may even be capsicums (of course there are no labels and no pictures and no prices on them). And 2 flowering plants – a purple petunia and a yellow pansy. They are all settling in well. I think Gail’s decision was wise – plants for John’s company rather than John going out to work.

3.      Its beautiful springtime weather here. The average maximum temperature for May is 23C (average minimum is 13C). Sunrise is at 5:30am and sunset is at 7:30pm. There is so much green and such very bright coloured flowers everywhere – such a change from the greys and browns of winter – and the change occurred almost overnight in mid-April when Spring was already half way through. Of course there is still plenty of concrete and asphalt – that doesn’t change with the seasons.
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4.      The suburb of Uijeongbu city, in which we live, is Nogyang (or sometimes called Nokyang with the “g” and “k” being interchangeable in certain circumstances). It has its own very new railway station (10 minutes walk, so, unless we are going all the way to Seoul central on the subway, we usually take a bus which has a stop only 1minute away,) and there are 3 local supermarkets within easy walking distance, the furthest is 5 minutes walk – these look very much like a mid to small supermarket in Australia, perhaps like an IGA and definitely smaller than a Safeway or Coles, but they are bright and modern in appearance. They include the expected supermarket items, also a butcher, a bakery, a seafood section (with some live fishy things) and in one case a clothing section.
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5.      In a couple of big supermarkets (Home Plus and Lotte Mart) in Uijeongbu (25 minutes by bus), I can buy 6 cans of VB (no other Australian beer) or 6 KGB’s or 6 Bacardi Breezers – all for about Aus$20. There are a couple of Korean premixes also but Breezers occupy most of the shelf space and, I gather, are very popular with the locals. Is it not cheaper to purchase by the dozen rather than single bottles or cans. As for my intake, I drink the local beer, local rum and Californian wine – all are the cheapest available in their category but are fine. Gail is also easy to please in this regard although it has taken her considerable tasting to reach this conclusion. We have the occasional (supposedly its each Thursday and Sunday) AFD. Of possible interest is the absence of lemonade here – I cannot find it anywhere, and each time Gail says “aha…” it turns out to be something else, such as apple cider.

6.      Although the shops here are of the older, smaller type they do serve the purpose of a typical suburban shopping strip.
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7.      Electricity supply is 220volts so no power transformer is needed but wall plugs allow only 2 round pins so a simple adapter is necessary to use Australian appliances (we brought several with us).

8.      We do a daily check on air quality as there are days when it is advisable to stay indoors or to wear a mask (just a cotton mask, not a gas mask from the first world war) if outside. Problem days are rare (there have been 2 “unhealthy” days since we arrived in this part of Korea) but on the odd day when winds bring the yellow sand (a smog-like mist) from China or Siberia, precautions are necessary.
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9.      To avoid drinking the local water (here, as well as in Thailand and in
China) we use Listerine (or a local equivalent) to rinse toothbrushes and our mouths. We no longer need to purchase bottled water as Gail has water fountains at her school and we have a water dispenser (both hot and chilled) here; we get replacement water bottles (19litres) delivered to our apartment for Aus$5 every 10 days. It may be safe enough to drink the tap water but we are in the habit now of not doing so.

10.  Our apartment building is typical of the ones nearby – only 20 apartments. The building itself is called a “villa” since it is not a high rise just a basement and 3 above ground floors. There are plenty of high-rise buildings a few blocks from here.
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11.  There are lots of new apartment buildings being constructed nearby to our residence.The addition of extra accommodation for, my estimate, at least 30, 000 people in about 4 city blocks will require the shopping area to be significantly revamped and expanded. The photos I have included show only a small part of the work actually under way.
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12.  Our apartment is provided as part of Gail’s employment but we pay for water and sewerage, internet and cable TV, electricity, gas and something called a service fee for which people come and sweep the stairs and remove excess junk mail (yes, they have that here too and it gets sticky-taped it onto your door not put in the letterbox – its mainly from supermarkets and food shops). The total cost is about Aus$200 per month for these additional charges.  It costs about $1700 per month for food etc. So there is not much to spare for travel and clothes.

13.  We do not have our own letterbox but rather we share with 4 others – all mail for 201(that’s us),202, 203, 204, and 205 are stuffed into the same small space. One of these is very slack (205) and there is still their mail from a month ago along with newer accumulations blocking our box.

14.  Just 3 door s from our “villa” is a playground and park – its small but its new and pretty and well used by kids after school and retirees during the day.
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15.  I can listen, live, to the radio coverage of the football each week via the internet by accessing the AFL website and it’s free. I can watch it on video too but have to wait until 12 hours after the match is finished for that free service. We need to have our own computer to do this and for this, and for many other reasons, the laptop (perhaps challenged by the Korean Lonely Planet book – thanks to Sue and Gary) is the most useful thing we brought from home. If we didn’t have these 2 things with us we would have had to purchase them ages ago, or else be very disoriented, cut-off and living a much poorer quality of life or at a much inflated cost.

16.  Gail takes our rubbish and recycles to the front of our building each morning. Rubbish collection is weekly but there are no bins for rubbish (only for recyclables) so the streets become lined with plastic bags waiting for collection – because they live in apartments people have no other outdoor space for their waste. People separate their plastics, glass, metal and paper from their general garbage, so obviously recycling is important. There are men who collect only cardboard, for example, – laying it flat on their pushcart and tying it down; sometimes it falls off and they restack the entire load only to have it tumble off again a few minutes later, but they patiently put it all on the street or footpath ready to restack it yet again. Where it goes after that, I’ve no idea. Other items for recycling are also collected in hand carts, often pushed or pulled by older women. Korea is an amazing mix of the modern, bright and techno savvy with the old, slow and low tech living styles.
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17.  I wash and iron 2 or 3 times each week. The washing machine is good but there is no drier and no clothes line, so drying occurs on a rack inside.

18.  Lint removal from clothes is done by rolling a sticky paper over the material. It works on a similar sort of principle as “fly paper” and it is necessary to remove a layer of used paper once its stickiness is worn off (which happens very quickly). But it does work.

19.  As is common in Korea, we have no oven.

20.  We sleep on a mattress on the floor.

21.  We remove our shoes on entering our apartment – the (heated) floor surface is thin and would not stand up to regular scuffing by shoes. The floor gets very dusty and each day requires sweeping and mopping – I don’t have a mop so I use a cloth and get down on my hands and knees.

22.  We have to remember to remove the towels and the toilet paper from the bathroom before taking a shower otherwise they would be drenched – there is no shower recess or curtain. 

23.  Our knowledge of Korean language has not progressed very much at all. We have refined the bits we learnt before leaving home (thanks Sunyi) but we have had little need to expand on that.
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